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If you've just said yes to the dress, congratulations — and welcome to one of the most important questions in wedding planning that nobody talks about enough: what happens after you buy it?
Almost every wedding gown needs alterations. The question isn't whether you'll need them — it's when to start, what to expect, and how to find someone you can trust with one of the most important garments you'll ever wear.
This guide covers all of it.
Wedding gowns are sold in standard sizes, but bodies are not standard. A size 10 gown off the rack might fit your hips perfectly and be two inches too large at the bust. A sample gown might be two or more sizes larger than you typically wear. Even a gown ordered close to your measurements will need at least minor adjustments — because fit is a process, not a single moment.
Beyond size, there are details that simply can't be determined until the dress is on your body: exactly where the hem falls with your specific shoes, how the bustle should be built for your train, whether the straps need shortening or the neckline needs adjustment. These decisions are made in person, with a master fitter, over the course of several appointments.
This is normal. This is expected. And when done right, it's what transforms a beautiful dress into your dress.
At Arthur + Lucca, bridal alterations are completed in carefully sequenced phases. We never rush a phase or combine steps that should be separate — because every adjustment to the bodice affects the hem, and every hem decision affects the bustle. Getting it right means doing it in the right order.
Phase 1 — Bodice Fitting
We begin with the foundation. All bodice work — taking in the sides, adjusting darts, addressing boning, and ensuring the dress sits securely on your body — happens here. For strapless gowns this phase is the most critical. The dress has to hold itself up without relying on straps, and getting that right requires careful, patient work. We'll talk through the fit in detail and make sure you understand exactly what we're doing and why before we make any irreversible changes.
Phase 2 — Straps & Hem Fitting
Once the bodice is confirmed, we address straps, sleeves, and the hem. The hem always comes after the bodice — how the dress sits on your body determines exactly where the hem needs to fall. We require the same shoes at every hem fitting without exception. Even a half-inch heel difference changes the length. We work in every hem type: cut, serged, blind, enclosed, horsehair, lace, and beaded lace.
Phase 3 — Bustle Fitting
The bustle comes last, after the hem is confirmed. We build every bustle to be secure, intuitive, and easy for your wedding party to manage on the day — no rehearsal required.
Final Pickup
Your gown is steamed and ready to try on in full. We review everything together before it leaves the studio. For brides adding dry cleaning, the final try-on happens before the gown goes to our cleaning partner.
Each phase takes approximately two weeks. The number of phases varies depending on your gown and what it needs — not every gown requires all three, and some may need an additional round for complex work.
Most brides at Arthur + Lucca go through three fitting phases plus a final pickup — so four appointments in total. Some gowns require fewer. Some require more. The number depends on the complexity of the alterations, the construction of your specific gown, and how your body responds to each phase of adjustments.
If additional fittings are needed to get the fit exactly right, we expedite those at no extra rush charge to keep you on schedule. Our commitment is to see every bride through to her wedding day — regardless of how many appointments it takes.
The more information you bring, the more productive your first fitting will be. If you're unsure about shoes or undergarments, that's okay — your fitter will talk you through it.
As early as possible after getting your dress.
Our bridal alterations process is built around fitting phases, each approximately two weeks. For most gowns with standard alterations — bodice, hem, and bustle — the full process takes roughly six to eight weeks of fitting time, plus whatever buffer we build in before the wedding. Starting earlier simply gives us more flexibility at every stage and means that if something unexpected comes up, we have room to address it without pressure.
Expedited options are available for brides on tighter timelines. Fees apply only to phases that need to be completed faster than the standard two-week window — not as a blanket upfront surcharge. The easiest way to avoid any expedited fees is to start as soon as you have your dress.
To get a personalized recommendation for when to book your first fitting based on your wedding date, use our Bridal Alterations Planner at arthurandlucca.com/pages/wedding-dress-alterations. Enter your wedding date and gown details and the planner will show you your ideal start window, the last date to begin without expedited fees, and a full fitting calendar.
Not all tailors work on wedding gowns. And not all shops that work on wedding gowns do so at the same level. Here's what to look for:
Transparent pricing. A reputable bridal alterations specialist should be willing to share pricing before your appointment — ideally with a published price list you can review before booking. If a shop won't give you any sense of cost until they have your dress in hand, be cautious.
All work done in-house. Some shops send garments to a third-party tailor. When the person who fits your gown is not the person who alters it, accountability disappears. In-house work means the team that assesses your garment is the team that constructs it — start to finish.
A clear phase-by-phase process. The shop should be able to explain their fitting process, how many appointments you can expect, what happens at each phase, and what the plan is if something needs to be revisited. Vague answers here are a red flag.
Experience with your specific gown type. A tailor who is excellent with suit trousers may not have deep experience with structured bridal gowns. Ask directly about their experience with your silhouette and fabric — especially for strapless, corset-style, or multi-layer gowns.
Recommendations from bridal boutiques. The best bridal alterations specialists in any market are the ones that local boutiques recommend by name. Ask your boutique who they trust for their brides.
We are Chicago's premier tailor shop, located in the West Loop at 845 W. Washington Blvd, Floor 3. With over 150,000 hours of alterations completed, we are one of the most experienced bridal alterations studios in the city — and the top recommendation for wedding gown alterations by several of Chicago's leading bridal boutiques.
Every alteration is done in-house. All pricing is published on our website. Our fitters look at the whole garment — not just the area you point to — and communicate every option and outcome before making any irreversible change. We have never not gotten a bride down the aisle.
Brides who register their wedding with us receive 15% off all alterations, custom clothing, and services for their entire wedding party — bride, groom, groomsmen, bridesmaids, and family. Register at arthurandlucca.com/pages/sign-up-for-your-discount.
Ready to get started? Use our Bridal Alterations Planner to get a personalized fitting calendar and estimate, then book your first fitting at arthurandlucca.com/pages/wedding-dress-alterations.
