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If you've just said yes to the dress, congratulations — and welcome to one of the most important questions in wedding planning that nobody talks about enough: what happens after you buy it?
Almost every wedding gown needs alterations. The question isn't whether you'll need them — it's when to start, what to expect, and how to find someone you can trust with one of the most important garments you'll ever wear.
This guide covers everything.
Wedding gowns are sold in standard sizes, but bodies are not standard. A size 10 gown off the rack might fit your hips perfectly and be two inches too large at the bust. A sample gown might be two sizes larger than you typically wear. Even a gown ordered to your measurements will need at least minor adjustments — because fit is a process, not a single moment.
Beyond size, there are details that simply can't be determined until the dress is on your body: exactly where the hem falls with your specific shoes, how the bustle should be built for your train, whether the straps need shortening or the neckline needs reshaping. These are decisions made in person, with a master fitter, over the course of several appointments.
This is normal. This is expected. And when done right, it's what transforms a beautiful dress into your dress.
Bridal alterations in Chicago typically range from $250 for minimal adjustments to $2,500 or more for complex structural work. The most common range for a full set of alterations — bodice, hem, and bustle — falls between $800 and $1,200.
What drives the cost up:
What keeps the cost lower:
The best way to get an accurate estimate is to bring your dress in for a fitting. At Arthur + Lucca, all pricing is published on our website before you ever walk through the door — so you can get a general sense of costs before your first appointment.
The short answer: as soon as you have your dress.
Our standard bridal alterations process takes approximately 14 weeks from your first fitting to your final pickup. This gives us enough time to work through each phase carefully, with room to address anything unexpected without rushing.
What happens if you start later than 14 weeks out?
Expedited alterations are available, and we accommodate brides on tight timelines regularly — including brides who come to us just weeks before their wedding. Expedited fees apply based on how much time remains, starting at 25% for under 14 weeks and scaling from there.
The earlier you start, the more flexibility everyone has. If your wedding is 6 months away and you already have your dress, book your first fitting now.
Most brides at Arthur + Lucca need between 3 and 5 fittings. The number depends on the complexity of the alterations and how your body responds to each phase of adjustments.
Our process follows four distinct phases:
Phase 1 — Bodice and Structure
This is where we establish the foundation. We address the sides, bust, darts, boning, and any structural work needed to make the dress sit securely on your body. For strapless gowns this phase is the most critical — the dress has to hold itself up without relying on straps to stay in place.
Phase 2 — Straps and Sleeves
Once the bodice is confirmed, we address straps, sleeves, and shoulder adjustments. We always communicate every possible outcome before making any irreversible changes — adding or shortening sleeves, for example, can affect how the armhole sits, and you should know that before we cut anything.
Phase 3 — Hem
The hem is set only after the bodice is finalized. This is because how the dress sits on your body determines exactly where the hem needs to fall. We require the same shoes at every hem fitting — even a small heel difference changes the length. We work in every hem type: cut, serged, blind, enclosed, horsehair, lace, and beaded lace.
Phase 4 — Bustle
The bustle comes last, after the hem is confirmed. We build every bustle to be secure, intuitive, and easy for your wedding party to manage without a tutorial on the day.
We never combine phases that should be separate. It takes more appointments, but it's what ensures your gown fits correctly at every stage with no surprises at final pickup.
The more information you bring, the more productive your first fitting will be.
Not all tailors work on wedding gowns, and not all tailor shops that work on wedding gowns do so at the same level. Here's what to look for:
Transparency on pricing. A reputable bridal alterations specialist should be willing to share pricing before your appointment. If a shop won't give you any sense of cost until they have your dress in hand — be cautious.
Experience with your gown type. Strapless ball gowns, fitted crepe gowns, and lace A-lines all have different construction challenges. Ask whether the shop has experience with your specific silhouette and fabric.
All work done in-house. Some shops outsource sewing to third-party tailors. In-house work means the person who fits your gown is the person who alters it — that accountability matters.
A clear process. The shop should be able to explain their fitting process, how many appointments you can expect, and what happens if something needs to be adjusted after a phase is complete.
References from bridal boutiques. The best bridal alterations specialists in any market are the ones that local bridal boutiques recommend by name. Ask your boutique who they trust.
We are a full-service tailor shop located in Chicago's West Loop, specializing in wedding gown alterations, bespoke custom clothing, and precision alterations for men and women. With over 150,000 hours of alterations completed, we are one of the most experienced alterations studios in the city — and we are the top recommendation for bridal gown alterations by several of Chicago's leading wedding boutiques.
Every alteration is done in-house. All pricing is published on our website. We have never not gotten a bride down the aisle.
Brides who register their wedding with us receive 15% off all alterations, custom clothing, and services for their entire wedding party.
Ready to get started? Book your first bridal fitting at arthurandlucca.com.
